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Random Picture Post V2

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Here we go :D
 

guys, FYI: anything even resembling

Strategically covered nudity
Sheer or see-through clothing
Lewd or provocative poses
Close-ups of breasts, buttocks, or crotches


will get the entire thread deleted and possibly you deleted too. I can't have that here. The original post had some of that and now POOF, it is gone.

thanks for your cooperation. Anyone who see's a violation like this please report it and if a mod gets the picture deleted in time, before i see it, maybe the entire thread won't have to go.



actually, offensive is exactly what i posted in the last thread i locked. Brian laid it out too. No need to be a smart ass. All i asked is you guys don't post anything questionable and everything will be fine. A chick with big breasts bulging out of her shirt with huge visiable nipples poking through, is NOT acceptable here. No crotch shots, even with bikini. If you want to post that shit, use the 18+ section. These are MY rules, not any other mod or any other ADMIN here. MINE. So please, don't give my mods any bullshit because they are helping me enforce MY rules.

thanks.


The Automotive Picture Post

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We post enough of these that it may be worth it's own thread. APP anyone?

How much glue do I need to recone 4 Fi 12s

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I was wondering if 2 3oz bottle will be enough to recone 4 Fi Q 12s or do i need more or less. On a budget not trynna over spend.

Things that piss you off (anything)

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people that think people with doctorate degree's are actual doctors

FS:2 DC 9KS,DC 175.4 & 90.4,SMD RCAS AND DC POWER 370 ALTS

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So I finally decided to step away from the Car Audio game for now and I have alot of equipment to get rid of. These are just a few of the items and mainly the bigger ones, that I have for sale. Prices so low make you wanna smack your mama LoL but no really these are priced to sell and all prices include shipping. So what you see is what you pay.

 

Used-A2 DC 9k-$1400. Thats some sticky glue on the top not scratches. Not sure what its from but it will come off

 

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New-A3 DC Audio 9k- $1700

 

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Used-DC Audio 175.4-$350

 

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Used-DC Audio 90.4-$250

 

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New-SMD RCA's 3ft-$25 and 6ft-$35

 

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Used-1 DC Power Externally regulated 370xp Alternators Powder Coated white-$450

 

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Two box designs, Please help me decide!

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Could some of you "Box experts" please check out this design as I would like some opinions on this before I build one of these. Please look at the enclosed photos and let me know which design you think would work and sound the best. Ill be using a AA Mayhem 15. 2000 RMS watts amp and I have a very capable electrical system {High current Singer alt. 0 gauge wiring, two big batteries, Big three upgrade, etc.} This is going in a crew cab pickup truck in the rear floor area. AA's web sight says this sub works in 3-5 cf enclosures and needs 12 - 16 square inches of port area per cf. Both designs seem to meet these requirements and would be tuned to around 32hz. I listen to rock metal rap and country music if it matters. SQ is important to me but I want it loud as well. The main design differences are overall size and slight shape differences. What if any would this change the sound? I have never used the Torres software or this sub before and am just unsure about what I have planned. Thanks ...

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Cpillar Tahoe (2) DC 18s (2) DroppinHZ 5ks

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Been a while since I have been on the forum so I thought I would throw together a quick build log for my 95 Tahoe.

 

As of now it consists of (2) Level 6 DC 18's on (2) DroppinHZ 5k Amplifiers in a 4th order. These photos are taken 2 days before MidwestSPL finals when I final got the box put into the truck. I Still have to add all the 45s in the corners, resin the box and add a lot of bracing but for doing the install by myself I am not one to complain of how it turned out. This is also my daily driver. So now onto the photos

 

the Subs next to my youngest son

DC%2018%20subs%201.jpg

 

the design I did was built as 2 separate boxes. One rectangle sealed box and one "L" shape ported box. Here a quick shot of the first time I used the Kerfing technique.

DC%2018%20subs%209.jpg

 

The 2 boxes joined (which was a pain in the ass to do by myself)

DC%2018%20subs%2013.jpg

 

fast forward to some cleaned up shots

DC%2018%20subs%2014.jpeg

 

rear shot

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quick shot of the Truck

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A video from a few days after finals

https://youtu.be/9SfO589lljU?list=PLBxrxU4quIDiiMWz3vYhYANiRnGaNB24U

 

I am a mechanical designer and use AutoCAD to design all my boxes. Here is a quick video of a toy I borrowed from work to get the precise measurements for this latest box

https://youtu.be/Cfj19IHtavE

 

 

On a side note both of my boys compete in the Powerwheel class and these are their vehicles that they drive all over the subdivision.

 

Grave digger has (2) SoundQubed 8's and the Firetruck has (2) DC 8's in a 4th order.

 

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WTB 6-8k amplifier

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Korean only
$1000 or less
PayPal ready

Kryptonite's 4-10s to 2-18s

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Alright so finally got around to "finishing" a build in one of my vehicles haha.  I say "finishing" because it's as close to done without having the new alternator or battery racks built but it's sooo close lol.  "Fighter Jet" reasoning will be shown through pictures, hopefully you get the meaning haha. Here are the stats:
 
2000 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD
Pioneer 80PRS
Custom switch/gauge panel
SHCA RCAs, fuse holders, ring terminals, heat shrink
SHCA Green and Black 1/0
DC AUDIO 5K DC AUDIO 7.5k
4- Soundqubed HDC3 10s 2-18" DC Audio Lvl 6 18s, full Carbon fiber option
XSPOWER Batteries
Singer Alternators 375a custom mount alternator
 
DISCLAIMER: Yes, i know, my signature says DC Audio Nut hugger and i'm running HDC3s, and there is a very good reason for that lol.  I have my lvl 6s that could have gone in but i didn't have the money at the time for the proper battery and alternator power to feed both 5ks the right way.  I found these 10s in the For Sale section here for a stupid cheap price.  Always wanted to get back to a small diameter sub build and said fuck it lol. If they happen to blow up or i am able to sell them, the 18s will get put in.  In fact i've already been toying with the new build plans for the 18s but that's another build log haha.
 
Anyone want to see some pictures?

Old School Cerwin Vega Stroker enclosure help

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I've recently come across two old school cerwin vega stroker 15's dual 4's and had a quick question before I purchase them a little info on my car it is a 2005 Honda accord sedan my cars trunk has close to 11 cubic ft of usable space 36" wide 17" height 31" Depth the 2 15's needing 8.46 cubic ft not including port and woofer displacement has me wondering if I could get away with using 3/4" 13 ply birch instead of 1' mdf  so I can shave some weight and so I can gain some wiggle room for the baffle design  they will be powered by a kicker kx 2400 for the time being only because I got it so cheap due to me working at best buy they would be firing into the cabin sealed trunk install

Vehicle: Chevy Tahoe (1997)

My small build , DC M3-8 new box build Finished Pg57

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Ok I will start with
 
 I am 46 years old and love loud bass pounding music. I listen to ICP, Lamb of god, killswitch engaged ect,  I had a small system in 1994 in a 82 Toyota pick up. It was two 8" subs, 6 " door with tweets and a RF punch amp. Yes back then we had cassett decks.  Anyway it was stolen and I swore I would never put another system in a car or truck of mine again. Well fast forward to today and I have a problem. I cant get enough and its getting out of hand but its fun.
 
So next thing that I did was went to Car Toys for a system and install in my now 99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab pu. I know I should of done my research first cause I paid way to much for way to little that I could have done on my own. Any way I got a pioneer deck which is decent, alpine type s door speakers, alpine 45 watt 4 channel HU booster amp, a JBL 500 W 10 " in a box and a JBL 400.1 amp.  It cost well I am embarrassed to say but it was 1000 bucks installed. Ok so then I joined this site and started researching and found lots of great info. I realized I paid wayyy toooo much for what I have. I checked all the work they did and they wired my amp with 10 gauge wire when the amp clearly states that at lest 8 gauge is required.  My RCAs are about 25 feet long and all bundled up behind the deck. I bought new ones that are about 9 feet. Holy crap I could of done all this myself. I ran all new 4 gauge power and ground wire. Did the big 4 upgrade with 1/0 wire.
 Any way I purchased a kenwood 500.1d mono amp to run the JBL. I soon fried that sub as there was too much power going to it. I had it replaced with a new one on warranty. I realized this sub sucked. I purchased a 10 RE audio SEX10D4 sub and made my own ported box. It sound pretty good but electrical is lacking.
 Well I ordered a crappy alt and ended up sending it back and ordering a DC alt. Its still on its way and really cant wait. I installed a new Duralast platinum gell cell deep cycle batter.
 So after looking on this site I wanted a bigger mono amp to run the RE and have room to grow so I ordered the CT sounds 1400 which does pretty good power. I have it running the sub right now and it does sound great but still not loud enough. Also the door speakers don't sound that great either.
 Now Iam in deep so I just went for it and ordered a soundqubed HDC12 to run off my CT amp at 1 ohm. I built a new box for it that's 2.7 tuned at 35.5. Its on its way. That should satisfy my need for bass I hope.
 Then yesterday I ordered a CT sounds 125.2 to run my front speakers as the little 45 w amp just isn't getting it. Then just tonight I ordered a set of RE audios XXX 6.5 component set for the front. That combined with the new amp should sound great. I will put the alpine in the rear speaker holes and run them off the 45 w amp and just fade more to the front.
 
 Well that's were I am right now with my truck. Its crazy how much it has changed in the last couple months and how quick you get used to the sound and want more and more and more. I really don't want a system that shakes my truck apart but want to impress people who hear it. I think I am getting close to my goal.

New build in my Nissan Cube

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My first build!!!!

Just started today so I'll keep posting as it comes along

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FS: BNIB SMD AMM-1

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Thought I would use but but never really have....save $50 instantly

 

$350.00 shipped.  U.S. 48 states only.

 

I bought it summer of 2016 directly from Steve

 

http://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-audio-multimeter-amm-1.html

 

The purpose of this tool is to enable the user to:

  • Measure True Amplifier Power output into any load reactive or resistive
  • Measure Common DC voltages
  • Measure DC voltage drops during quick transients on cable runs or battery / charging systems
  • Measure Impedance of speakers at any power or frequency from 20Hz - 1kHz (box rise)
  • Measure Phase Difference between Voltage and Current into reactive loads (Power Factor)
  • Find Tuning Frequency of subwoofer enclosures
  • Tune subwoofer enclosures for maximum power transfer
  • Measure AC Volts (amplifier output)
  • Measure AC Amps (amplifier output)
  • Measure apparent power (VA) output, Phase Angle, and Real Power (Watts) of audio amplifier, or consumption of appliances that run on AC power
  • Measure Frequency of a Sine Wave

What is included?

  • The AMM-1 tool
  • Protective silicon rubber boot
  • Harness
  • This manual
  • Pride of ownership

Specifications

  • DC Voltmeter: -100 Volts to +100 Volts
  • AC Voltmeter: 0 - 150 VRMS
  • AC Ammeter: 0 - 100 ARMS
  • AC Apparent Power: 0 - 15,000 VA
  • Power Factor: 50 - 100%
  • Frequency: 10 - 20,000 Hz
  • AC Impedance: 0 - 200 Ohms
  • True Power Dyno: 0 - 15,000 Watts
  • Auto-shut off timer: 8 - 10 minutes after ON button is pressed
  • Battery self-test and display of condition when AMM-1 is initialized

 

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98 silverado box build

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Hey guys. Finished up building and delivered a box for a customer the other day. Box is for a single cab 98 silverado and will house 2 Rockford Fosgate shallow P3 10s and a set of R1 6x9s. The center section is recessed to hold a jl 1000/5 amp.

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Pictures of it in the vehicle will be posted when I recieve em.

2015 Chevy Sonic/Wall/4 PSI 15's/SA 6K/Active/Arc/CDT/Singer/US Alt/XS

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So it all began this past March when I decided to get a low-cost daily driver.  I found a deal on a 5 speed manual non-turbo Chevy Sonic. Built in America, 15000 miles, 1 previous owner (repo'd), and sales price about $12000.  Blue Book is 15k, so this was definitely a deal.  

 

Test pic

IMG_3855.jpg

Infinity kappa perfect 6.1/. ReAudio mx15

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I have a new set sitting here for years and I'm thinking about putting them in my W210 E55. What amp would you recommend? I'm thinking something under 300. I also have a MX15 collecting dust that I thought would also be a nice addition to the Infinitys. What amp would you recommend for this sub, I was thinking about putting it in a 2cuft sealed box. I'm just looking for a good quality sound. Car has a new battery and 1/0 battery cable. Not looking upgrade the electrical.
I'm open to any and all suggestions. Thanks

Steve

The official guns and stuff shoot the breeze thread

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Since we seem to be some thread jacking fools in all the other gun threads lets just start dumping it in here :D

2-way 5x7 vs 3-way 6x9

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What do you guys think will sound better? These speakers will be amplified by their own amp. I purchased two pair of Hertz 3-way 6x9 speakers for a great price during Boxing Day sales. However, I've been reading that 3-way speakers aren't great. Would getting the smaller Hertz 2-way 5x7 be better? I also purchased the Hertz 4 channel amplifier for these speakers.

4 - XS XP950

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I have 4. I won't ship. 90 bucks a peice

I live in the bay area california

Rear seat console build

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Hey guys, just started on a build for a Ram 1500 crew cab and sit on the rear seat. It'll hold 2 Memphis M5 12s and be 3 cu ft tuned to 32 hz. Since it'll sit on the rear seat, it'll have a slot for the seat belt to go thru to secure it in place..

Here's the design and work I did last night..

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ZV5 18/15 or NSV3 18/15 for new build?

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Hello there guys, the tittle is pretty much my question..

i'm upgrading next month and i am stuck between the two subs.

since i am across the pond in the UK, we really have only 1 legit distributor of sundown  audio(Wayne from Hz Audio UK), the rest are a joke, with old stock, and overpriced..
I first saw the ZV5 for 850 English pesos,and was absolutely in love, but then i saw the NSV3 for 10 English pesos cheaper across the range, and that's when i got lost, isn't the NSV3 better? if so then, why is it cheaper?and there seems to be no thread on ZV5 vs NSV3 whatsoever.

i'm probably going to have either a 15 or 18, not sure yet! the box will be slot ported ~6-7.5cu.ft tuned between ~25-30hz 

The NSV3 should theoretically be better? its weirdly got a wider but shorter magnet,yet stands taller than the ZV5, and i heard they both share the same VC and cone assembly.

i'm planning to put 5-8k regardless of which sub, my priority is lows and SQ

What are your thoughts ? really appreciate any help :)


Planning my first Sub

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I've had this thought in the back of my mind for quite some time. After talking to a couple of buddies at work, they convinced me that it would be worth it and to go for it. As I have never dabbled in the car audio world much, I am not sure as to what would suit me best. My budget is around $500, and am trying to get the best thump and quality for my buck. I would be putting this in a 2005 Ford Taurus SEL sedan. Currently, I have the factory Bose speakers, and no sub. Here is what I'm looking at right now.

 

 

Pioneer DEH-X6900BT

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KKHSYGE/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FMHNVWMGI839

 

Pioneer Gm-D9601 2,400-Watt Class D Mono Amp

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CLFM596/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2AH6BGHI3KV4N

 

Pioneer 12-Inch 4000W TS-W3003D4 Subwoofers with Vented Box Enclosure

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CMWSC6W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4

 

KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050I6KII/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1NLNJ4Y2QP8Z

 

Some questions that I have are:

 

1. Will I be able to run this off of the stock alternator, and a single battery while running?

    a. If so, about how long without having the car running.

 

2. Should I replace the Front and Rear speakers, or if just replacing the head unit be sufficient?

 

 

I am open to any recommendations, criticism, and advice.

(update 12/29) 99 S-10 Blazer Rebuild (two HDC3 18" on 4400w)

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For rebuild, go to post #39. Initial four 15's build is below.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey all. I've been reading these forums for years now, just trying to soak up some information before jumping in.

 

I've always had some sort of setup in my car ever since I got my first one at 16. However, it was always whatever I could find on Craigslist for under $200.

 

So after reading hundreds (if not thousands) of build logs, I decided to finally throw a little build together and see how it works out.

 

Next week I have fall break and will be doing a big overhaul. This system was put together in a little over 2 days, so I could go "compete" in my first show.

--------------------------------------------------

Vehicle: 1999 S-10 Blazer 4DR

Head Unit: JVC KD-A605

Dash Speakers: 2x Pioneer TSG4645R 4" x 6" (30w rms)

Door Speakers: 4x Kenwood KFC-1665S 6.5" (30w rms)

Highs/mid amp: Hifonics Brutus 316.4

Subwoofer amp: Hifonics Brutus BRX3016.1D

Subwoofers: 4x NVX VCW 152 (15", dual 2 ohm, 1000w RMS) wired to 1 ohm

 

1 run of 4 GA scraps (acquired in trades over the years), stock battery, stock 105A alternator, no big 3 upgrade.

--------------------------------------------------

TxDJq8ll.jpg

vb6VRNKl.jpg

I got these four 15s off of Craigslist real cheap, but they were in a box made for a tahoe, so I couldn't use them without removing/folding down my rear seats:

qTU0954l.jpg

I did some research here, and found the build logs of members Carnag3 and SoCaLBaMF, who both did two 18"s in the back with rear seats. Their boxes were about the right size for my subwoofers, so I just needed to make some little adjustments.

 

Their builds can be seen here:

 

Carnag3

 

SoCaLBaMF

 

After learning how to use Sketchup, and playing around with some stuff, I got a design I liked:

OETwhYul.png

UW1Fy3Il.png

(The cutouts in the design represent the outer surround dimensions. The actual woofer cut outs are a bit smaller, but I mapped it out as such to make sure none of the surrounds would overlap.)

 

The planned specs were:

 

44.25" wide x 24" tall x 31.25" deep (exterior dimensions)

 

Port dimensions - 6.5" wide x 27" long x 21.5" deep (175.5 square inches of port area) (tuned to 34hz)

 

16 cu ft. gross

 

- 0.10 cu ft. for the wheel well wedges (3.875" wide x 29.75" deep x 7" long)

- 0.60 cu ft. for subwoofer displacement

- 0.11 cu ft. for 2" x 4" bracing

- 1.85 cu ft. for port displacement

 

13.44 cu ft. net (3.36 cu ft. per subwoofer, quite a bit over recommended specs by NVX).

 

(If someone is bored and would like to check my math for fun, that'd be cool. I'm fairly certain I have some sort of math error, as it was my first time trying to build a box.)

 

Cut-out dimensions:

 

44.25" x 31.25" x1 (top)

38" x 29.75" x1 (bottom)

44.25" x 22.5" x2 (front/back)

7" x 29.75" x2 (side stubs)

3.875" x 29.75" x2 (side stubs)

14" x 29.75" x2 (side stubs)

 

--------------------------------------------------

I went and grabbed 3 sheets of .75" MDF, a gallon of Titebond II, a nail gun and some nails, and got started with the help of my father.

 

Mapping the top baffle out to make sure it would fit:

tNRWvGZl.jpg

(The short lines were my original drawing with the top baffle being only 29.75" deep. I had to re-adjust it to 31.75" deep to make it all fit)

 

Start of the shell:

SjLd2Dtl.jpg

Got the port up and installed. It acts as bracing for itself, with the four square legs:

hjy1LVFl.jpg

2" x 4" bracing in between each set of subs:

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All put together and subs loaded:

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Sitting pretty in the back:

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My temporary wiring mess:

UXnPXhml.jpg

Seats in, with headrests, and still plenty of amp clearance and room to operate the folding mechanism:

iqFwGGql.jpg

It was a lot of fun building the box, and despite some issues (TONS of crooked cuts, learnings curve on tools I'd never used before, screw gun getting jammed repeatedly, etc) I think it came out pretty good.

 

Some videos will follow below.

 

First hair trick attempt:

Interior flex:

Exterior flex:

First competition run:

At my first local "competition" (it was more of a get together, that happened to have a guy doing metering), I got the opportunity to try metering for the first time.

 

I hadn't done any previous research on how to meter, so I just drove up and asked him what to do. He put it on the dash, and told me to pick a song and play it for 60 seconds.

 

I used "On My Level (28 and up)" from Decaf Zip 19.

 

Got a 138.70 after 60 seconds, and took 4th place (no wall + 60 second musical average). I feel like that number was pretty low (for some reason I was expecting 144+), but my voltage was also between 10v - 11v for pretty much the entire run.

 

I think if I had played a different song I could've taken 2nd place. (It was 139.96 dB).

 

The guy who took first was in a Yukon with two DD915's on a Sundown SCV6k doing close to 149.

--------------------------------------------------

I've since placed orders for a 270A JS Ultimate alternator, 60' of Copper 2/0 welding cable, fuses, fuseholders, etc.

 

Hopefully it'll arrive before this weekend, so I can pull out the whole system and start over.

 

The plan is for a 4th order wall (slide in) with a 2:1 ratio tuned at around 47hz.

--------------------------------------------------

2016 Mazda 6 SQ(L) build

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As some of you may know... I used to own a 96 accord that I called the DemoCCord. Well, a quick summary of the year + that I have been gone goes as follows. 

 

INTRO

 

I attended Texas State University and got my BS in Multimedia Production. I then got a job in South Austin (Texas). Somewhere in between that my 96 accord had On Axis dash pods with a B2 reference 3 way set and was still able to put up a 148 outlaw at 32hz. Then my accord started having more mechanical issues then I could deal with. SOOOO i bought a new car. 

 

On to the build log. 

 

So after searching through many cars I decided on a 2016 Mazda 6. I bought it off the showroom floor with 18 miles on it. It can seat 4 very comfortably (even if all are 6' tall), It gets mid 30's on the highway per gallon, it has a very respectable trunk size (muahahahaha) and to top it all off its pretty quick when I want it to be. So im in love. 

 

This build log goals = 

1) Maintain an OEM (or better) look to anything I add or modify.

2) Be very competitive in SQ classes

3) 147+ on the meter with a pretty flat bandwidth

4) The only thing that will be more detail oriented then the build log and pictures, is the build itself particularly in the wiring and fabrication department. (like zip ties every 6 inches, all the deadener facing the same way... that kinda stuff) 

 

The products that will be used (pictures coming soon) 

 

B2 Audio 

B2 Ref63 (the high end 3 way set) 

(2) B2 Quattro's - One powering the 3's and tweeters, the other bridged on the mid bass 

(1) B2 Zero.5r "A 3k amplifier" - more on this later ;) 

(2) B2 HNv3 12's - D2 coils 

(1) Prototype B2 6to8 DSP

(1) B2 Lithium SLIP40a

 

SecondSkin Audio

160sq feet of Damplifier pro

140 Sq feet of overkill and overkill pro

and a few other goodies... Ken always hooks it up. 

 

Other things

(1) Northstar Group35 OEM replacement front battery

Sky High battery terminals

100 Feet of 2/0 welding cable

4ga and 8ga welding cable for other stuff

About $150 in techflex (2 colors and 3 sizes... yes im going that OCD) 

Stinger 12ga, 16ga speaker wiring

Soundrive custom RCA's ( 4 pairs of 15 feet, and 3 pairs of 16 inches ) 

JL audio Fix86 - Its to grab my OEM signal, normalize it, and then I can feed a low level signal into my DSP

Metra speaker adapters for the front doors

FAST Rings for the front doors

12v Metalworks Custom fuse/distro block and 2 ANL fuse holders

About $350 in Tesa tape to help me put on the deadener perfectly and wrap OEM looking wiring harnesses

Odds and ends... like Neo magnets to hold beauty panels * more on this later ;) *, threaded wood inserts, and rivets, all copper lugs... TONS of odds and ends... seriously, its painful to think about how much was spent.  

 

All the stuff out of the accord totaled about 5 grand retail, and I just spent another 5 grand or so getting all the other parts for the system. Pictures will be uploaded soon. Ive got pictures of the car (stock), and pictures of a bunch of stuff ordered and a bunch more on the way. 

 

So show some love, and keep tuned. 

 

Thanks guys!

CREW CAB CHEVY SQ BUILD (old school inside)

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Alright ladies and gentleman, been some time since I've been posting. Some may remember my Sable build with the single 12 off a Tru Hammer, and some may remember by Blazer I started with the same sub/amp combo but running a Hertz 3 way off a Linear Power 2.2hv.

Well both of those cars are gone, traded the sable for my wife's Acadia Denali, and traded the Blazer for my 2008 Silverado Crew Cab. Audio was put on the back burner, we welcomed our 3rd child last September and bought a new house around the same time, so priorities were getting accustomed to our new budget.

Well over the past few months things have been good, I've been piecing together an SQ setup, which stemmed from winning a set of Hybrid Audio Legatia pro tweeters at an SQ event. Well now the time has come, all equipment is here and all that's left is starting my fabrication.

Equipment is as follows
Pioneer AVH-X4800BS
Zapco 6ch DSP
Hybrid Audio Legatia tweeters
Silver Flute 6.5" 4ohm mids
12 inch Onyx sub
Soundstream D60 (tweeters)
Soundstream D100 (mids)
Soundstream D200 (sub)
All wiring is OFC Sky High

The stereo will be fully active, completely tuned through the DSP, and other than the radio, look completely stealth. Amp rack and sub will be under the rear seat.

Stay tuned....

Q for chevy/gmc 95 to 99 owners

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Ok ive searched google and didnt find any how to videos on getting the secondary battery tray under the hood. Im getting ready upgrade from fi bl 15s to the sp4 v2 15s and wanted to have 2 d3400 under the hood and 2 xp3000 in the back. I have a mechman 270 alt. I just cant find out how to add the bat tray. Theres something next to the radiator that i would have to try an relocate to make the other bat tray fit. Can anyone give me a link or maybe some advice on how to accomplish what im trying to do. Oh also will be running 2 audio legion 3.5ks strapped

2005 Chevy Tahoe 2 Team AA 18s Cpillar 4th Order 10k

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Current Equipment:
2 Team Ascendant Audio 18s
2 Ampere Audio 5000.1s
2 XS Power D3400s Under Hood
2 XS Power D3100s and a D2700 In The Back
2 Runs Of + SHCA 1/0
2 Runs Of - SHCA 1/0
Stock Alt (Singer 300 took a shit)

This is a short little build log of my Tahoe. This Tahoe has been through many different changes we'll start from the very beginning when I first got the truck and started putting audio upgrades and go to where it's at now with the wall. Hope you all enjoy!



First Build: 2 DC Audio XL 15s on 1 Ampere 5k



This is when I first got the truck, of course had to get it tinted the day I bought it. This is 5% all around with 30% on the windshield.


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Next was to get the deck, remote, PAC, and RCAs ran to the back.


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I was looking for a truck that had captain chairs in the back so I could put the amp between the seats.
Here's a temp rack that ended up being permanent lmfao.


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Subwoofer difficulties

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Well, hello everybody! I just joined today, was hoping to get some help with a problem I have had for at least a year and a half. Before I start, I am a residential and industrial electrician by trades, with an automotive degree and tons of other certs. Been doin audio stuff since college ( 3 or 4 years) and know alot more then the average audio guy, but still far from an expert (just so you guys know I ain't a total noob) I have searched all over but have not been able to find any kind of helpful info. I have a power acoustik mofo 12 inch sub, a power acoustik 4000 watt D amplifier. My subwoofer is at one ohm resistance, I also have two 35AH 12 volt batteries in parallel as well as a 2 farad cap as the batteries are gel type. Now I have set the gain to the best of my knowledge, have the subsonic filter set to one half an octave below the port frequency, have the LPF filter set to around 100Hz and do not use the bass boost. I have 4 gauge power and ground wire, with a chassis and battery ground. I have added a much larger gauge wire from the alt, tho I dont know what gauge as it came off of a welder. There is a smell coming from the sub, however, it is not a burning smell. It just smells like a new subwoofer smell, just stronger. The sub does not feel scratchy when moved by hand, the dust cap gets warm but not hot and has been doing this for a year and a half, maybe more. I recently found out that my box is .4 cubic feet smaller then recommended, only has one port instead of the reccomened 2 and the HZ of the sub is 36, while my port is 32. I have been pulling my hair out for almost three weeks, and am at wits end! I apologize for all of the information at once, I think too much! If anyone can help, it would be much appreciated!

Also, I was wondering, does it matter what voltage the cap is set to? It maxes out at 16 volts, I have it set to about 15.4 as the voltage drops under 13.5 if set any lower

new box help

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so ive built alot of nice boxes but never got into the 4th and 6th order stuff, and i want to, i just got a good deal on a mint 12" alpine type x and i wanna experiment with it... 

 

can someone help me learn how to design 4th and 6th order boxes. or kinda show me how its done and then i can learn by doing it. more or less how tuning goes and how box size effect it all

 

pictures are always helpful, and links

 

thanks

 

 





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